![]() Don't forget to do the toe in if you did the tie rod ends. From here it's installation of all the parts. You'll know what I mean from the instructions and the parts in front of you.Īfter installation the knuckles should move freely with very very little resistance. You want to be able to tap in the bearings with some resistance. Don't forget to shim everything fairly tight. It can also be tricky putting in the spiral bushings, but once you get the hang of it you'll be fine. You also have to load up the bearing with grease. The Kaiser kingpin set comes with good instructions. Clean everything up real nice, including the axle eye. ![]() This can take a lot of work.Īfter the knuckle is removed you take the seals and the bushings out (with previously mentioned bushing driver). After the caps are removed you remove the draw keys and should be able to pound the kingpins out. Eventually the nut broke and my dad welded a rod to the kingpin cap. I had screw in ones and had to put 800 + ft lbs on a very shallow nut. Depending on style they can be a real bitch. To remove the steering knuckle you need to remove the upper and lower kingpin caps. Also check your wheel bearings/races and replace if necessary. Brake chambers to make it easier to take the knuckles off, but not necessaryĪt this point I would recommend a new drag link, new tie rod ends, Check your s-cams and bushings/ replace if necessary. Dial indicator for setting up wheel bearings I highly recommend Kaiser qwik-kit kingpins Brake shoe removal tool (or large pliers) The best products to extend the life of any equipment’s suspension. Kingpin bushing installer tool (kaiser makes one for their spiral bushings if you go that route) Kaiser King Pins, Spring Pins, and Bushings. Wheel nut removal tools, preferably air Have you done wheel bearings and wheel seals before? If I embark on this adventure, how much time should I plan on it taking? Any suggestions on where I might get more reasonably prices parts than what Peterbilt will offer? Any non-standard tools I might need? Any tips, tricks or suggestions anybody can offer would be greatly appreciated. Given that I have my own shop and, while I’m no mechanic I am a pretty accomplished parts-swapper, should this job be easily within the scope of my abilities, or should I go down to my local Cummins dealer and let them rape me like they usually do? My problem is that I’ve never done this before and don’t want to turn a minor problem into something major and very expensive. My tractor (2006 Pete 387) is no spring chicken (858k miles), and as I’ve been experiencing some unusual steer tire wear (yes, it is properly aligned and I have Road King shocks and Centramtics and Tru-Balance wheel centering sleeves), thought I might try replacing the king pins. You are dealing with steering and brakes is it worth the risk? If you insist on doing them (I say them because as stated above you do both not one side) good luck they can be a job that goes smoothly or they can fight you every step of the way.I know I’ve seen a post on here on the same topic, but I couldn’t find it, so here goes… I am tempted to say if you have never done them or have to ask how to do them it might be something to have more experienced person do. ![]() There is also possibility you might need new drag link or tie rod end depending on if cotter pin breaks and if you can drill/ punch it out. Some bushings are pre sized some are not and need sizing after they are driven into the spindle. Do you have a machine shop ready to size the bushings if needed. I have also had to cut/ or drill out the king pin lock bolts. Technically you should not heat the axle but if the pin is seized you do what is required. Rarely are two kingpin jobs the same.Some fall out,others have to be beaten out with heat.Remove your wheel,brakes,backing plates,tie rod,spyder.Remove tapered locking pin in axle eye,and top and bottom caps on spindle.Drive king pin out,hopefully comes out easy.Make sure your play was not in the axle itself,whole different job,then.In severe cases,have had to remove axle,and press pin out.Knock or cut old bushings out of spindle,carefully press in new ones.Keep an eye on how things come apart,not rocket science.Unless you have the right size reamer,you'll have to take your spindles to a truck front end shop to get your pins fitted.Put it all back together,the way it came apart.You will have to shim the new king pin bearing to get any play out.Shims should come in your kingpin kit.Once back together,grease well,spin both wheels and scribe center line on both tires.Have someone hold your tape measure,check front and back measurements.Toe in adjust tie rod to 1/8.Hope this helps,haven't done one for while,but that's how we did it in the old days,don't think much has changed,unless you have tapered king pins.Never fooled with them.ĭo you have torches? There has been times where the pin is seized and you will have to cut the thrust bearing to access pin to cut it so spindle can come off to allow better access to the seized pin.
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